There are also potential driver fixes *research 1st*, but there's the *possibility* of physically routing out jacks to in without frying any electronics (may work best with something sucking up voltage in between like headphones in parallel) (I've read pros saying they do it this way) you could possibly add/use an external (e.g. If you're stuck with a PC/laptop that won't record the audio it's playing, Google/Bing, & try including the make/model - a fix may be as simple as editing one value in the registry. That said, if it's not worth it to you there's nothing wrong with using an app that can save your recording in whatever format you want to save time & trouble. wav, then convert - if you don't match your hardware you might be doing unneeded lossy conversions internally *before* anything's written to disk, & if as most hardware yours works at 48, but you want to save at 44.1 (CD quality), software that can use dithering during the conversion will produce something that sounds better. Ideally your recording bit depth & sample rate should match what your hardware uses internally, & you should record to a lossless format like. Your choice of software should be based on its added features, GUI design etc. If you can record audio using the speakers as input, & you can play the audio file, re-recording (if you go that route) isn't going to be terribly different whether you're using Windows' Sound Recorder or you spent $375 for Sound Forge - the quality of the recording is going to depend mostly on the quality of the original, the quality of your electronics hardware, & if playback is enhanced by the player &/or plug-ins it used. If you want to remove DRM from files, you can always search for apps &/or methods that'll do that without re-recording anything - often they're specific to the type of file & DRM, so for example something that worked with WinMedia might not touch anything from iTunes, &/or something that worked years ago might not work with an DRMed audio file you downloaded today, &/or something you have the license for on your PC/laptop may work differently than the same file on another PC/laptop without that license. :-) The program's folder itself weighs in at ~52 MB with 189 files, 14 folders - the default, empty output folder is added in My Documents. between the registry entries & added files, I'd try not to click it too often. Installing Aimersoft Music Converter meant 1776 new registry entries recorded in XP - clicking the "Driver Check" button added another 540. inf files added to Windows' inf folder, plus possibly quite a few backup files/folders when you click that "Driver Check" button. Besides the 5 driver files you get "WS_ATLMovie.dll" added to the system folder, 10. It can also effect the way you have Windows audio handling set up, e.g. Needless to say installing 5 drivers has an impact on Windows, in this case maybe a bit more as Windows can automatically add supporting media handling files & set them up. Clicking Driver Check re-installs the *5* drivers. The Processing tab lets you set parallel conversions for files with DRM (the app recommends 3), there's an option for "Original sequence" or "Auto sorting", a button for Driver Check, & another for Switch (default) Soundcard. The DRM Finder tab lets you add default folders where you store files with DRM, & you can set it to auto-load all or just un-converted file. Click the Options button & on the General tab you can set the max number of cores to use, whether to delete or keep duplicates of the converted file(s), set Auto update. Using Aimersoft Music Converter is very straightforward - you add files, set the output format & destination, & click "Start" - there's nothing fancy about the non-re-sizable window. Note that some formats may require that you have needed codecs installed in Windows - testing a DVS-MS recording in XP used ffdshow for example. Speed converting (not re-recording) isn't bad, & it will import Windows Media, Apple Video, recorded files from Vista or 7's Media Center (as DVR-MS), along with. so you can put things back the way they were if necessary. The 2nd is a double-edged sword of sorts - it includes audio drivers in case your PC/laptop can't record speaker/audio out, which is great if they work & if you need them, but like any driver install these have the potential to muck up your system, so backup 1st, set a Restore Point etc. It has a couple of Gotchas - the minor one is that it uses more resources than it needs because some of the files & processes used for video are also active when you run today's GOTD. It also seems it's a limited version of an app designed to record video with DRM. Aimersoft Music Converter can both convert non-DRM audio files & record those with DRM.
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